\ 



\ 









■N~^ 









/% 




\ 1 ft , 




- -■*' 




<^%. 




./ ^ 



,,. ^,. 




-^.^^' ' 


■'^- V 










.x^^' 






x^' 'it,. ■ ^ ^ 



o 1 or 









.0^^ 



-^■■ 



or - o ^ ' o r 

<^ ' u . .. ' .:• 



v. 



•^A o"< "<= V* ^•'- 0^ 



0> s^',''. "^ ,\^V 



•?■» 11- 


x^ 




.s\ > 






/^ 







O^ 






o ' . . o i^ 





o^ 






X^^ 






i'S 



</•, 






' -^u 



• ' jy ■ .<> > , . .. <'^. ' " - * .^" 



A> 



fy'\':^^"'^^^^ 



^•'o^ bv*' : "ov^ ^^--o'^ "^^'^ 

/ \^^ %,/ %^' \^' . 






^^■r^ 



,0 _ 



■,^'\ 






/v 






nO^^ 






.s^^'% 



.,*• 



c-^'^- 



.x''-' 



x« --d. 



.'\- 

'b'' 






o.'?-- 



.0 ^ 



,-0' 






^^> V 



^A.< 



Am^K P^oPo^i^ioy^ 



I^ G[i(owT^, 



(Being 



OF THE HUMAJV ®ODY, 

For every Age and Size during the Years of Juvenile Growih. 

WITH FULL INSTEVCTIOJVS 
FO(R USE IJV (PFiOPORTIOmj.TG GARMENTS. 



P(^ By DANIEL EDWARD RYAN. 






^0^1 /' 



•^ 



\ 

1 



\ 



\ 



I 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by Danikl Ehward Ryan, in the Office of 

the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 



A legal right to use this work must show its conveyance to the subscriber by its number 
and license with the signature of the author attached. Any infringement, or unauthor- 



Ckutiori : 

ized use, will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law 



Book, Ykble^ of Sei^l^t kiid Widtli, ]^o.. 



'- /;^// 



TO 



3^ %. MjinU (f «jq* 

THE F R I K N D, 

WHOSE COUNSELS AIDED AND WHOSR APPRECIATION INSPIRED 
MY EFFORTS TO EXCEL; 

WHOSE JUDICIOUS CRITICISM, DIRECTED BV A PROFOUND 

KNOWLEDGE OF THE ART WE BOTH PROFESS, 

GUIDED MY LABORS; 

I DEDICATE THIS WORK. 

THE AUTHOR. 



'^ulntt< 




N submitting tnis work to the members of my Profession and to the 
Trade generally, 1 take advantage of the author's privilege of a Preface, 
to make a few remarks. When, some years ago, I determined to make 
a special study of Childrens' Garments, I found, on entering this branch of the business, 
an utter absence of all means for the production of children's garments by system and 
proportions of age and size. Beyond a few good patterns held by a limited number 
and guarded with extreme jealousy, no definite knowledge of the Juvenile Clothing 
business seemed to exist. Whatever good patterns there were in the country were 
originated in the most of cases experimentally ; and by a constant system of revision, 
based on a close observation of the requirements of living subjects, were toned down 
to correct proportions and fit. The amount of trial involved in the production of good 
patterns on such a basis, made them of great value, and almost impossible to obtain. 
As to any system by which to reproduce them and the proportions upon which they 
were based, it was unknown, or if known, .was a uead secret. 

1 determined to attain a thorough and exhaustive knowledge of the law of growth 
And the proportions of the human body during all the years of juvenile growth, and of 
the harmony of the growing form of any size. I turned to nature, and dealt only with 
the liyuig subject. After the labor of years in measuring children of all ages and sizes, 
and compiling the averages into a system of common sense tables, I have the j)leasure 
to know that my work is completed, and that it is my high privilege tu be abh; ti) ben- 
efit others, be it ever so little, by supplymg the lights that have guided nic to success. 



With no purpose of eventually placing this work before the public, I have labored 
on it, inspired only by professional pride and the enthusiasm of discovery. I am not 
yet fully convinced of the wisdom of publishing, and feel a hesitation tJ become the 
pioneer in a field where others have left no guide or standard of comparison to aid the 
public or myself in judging this work; but I yield to the urgent requests of many kind 
friends to place it within the reach of all, and if I succeed in winning the consideration 
of a Profession of which I am proud to be a member, by a'dding something useful and 
beneficial to the common stock of knowledge, I am amply repaid for manv trials and 



sacrifices. 



DANIEL EDWARD RYAN. 



In offering a Second Edition of this work to the Public, I herewith tender my 
thanks for the warm reception given the First Edition. The work has been distributed 
from Bangor, Maine, to Astoria, Oregon, and between the two extremes seems to have 
given unqualified satisfaction, as not one word has been written or spoken against its 
claims as an absolute and practical guide in the production of correctlv proportioned 
clothing patterns. What few errors crept into the first edition have been corrected in 
this one, and some important practical additions have been made, which will be found 
of especial value. The generous welcome given to Human Proportions in Growth has 
convinced me that my friends, who urged and encouraged me to issue, were prophets- 
not mine the wisdom. Gratefully and with still higher ambition I will pursue my pro- 
fessional career, stimulated by a high conception of our " Master Art." to aid its growth 
as a profession to the position of a peer among the highest. 

THE AUTHOK 



Inftadncfetti-s 




h ^^^ ^'^'■'^ work, the author submits a few preliminary remarks as to its 
origin, intent, and scope. It originated from tlie complete measurement 
of over twenty-six hundred children, boys and youths, taken in different 
parts of the country, from Massachusetts to California, and of all clas.ses of people, 
who were measured by the antlior personally. Also, from the reports of managers 
of institutions containing large numbers of boys, — and lastly from the proportions 
that form the base of average of the stocks of the leading manufacturing and retaU 
houses of America. 

The latv of yroivth, on a strictly anatomical basis, has been in the Hrst place 
obtained through the living subject, and the demands of the "Clothing Trade" complied 
with by harmonizing the proportions to suit the j^ractkal standard required in the 
productions of patterns and clothing. 

From a technical or medical standpoint, the proportions are not absolute to nature 
in every case, and the slight changes made have been as just stated, to give a practical 
basis to insure a result thoroughly proved to be an entire success. This work supplies 
a standard of proportion in widths, or properly girths, for juveniles of every age, based 
on the practical average for each age, with a corresponding scale of height dividing the 
figure into parts from head to foot in such a manner that every length in any garment 
can be instantly located to suit the height of figure or the prevailing fashion, thus 
insuring uniformity in sets of patterns. 



The principle laid clown and adapted to the growth of the figure comprehends 
every change of fashion for all time to come; and finally the work supplies the clothier 
with an absolutely safe guide by which to size and age Juvenile Clothing. In its scope 
all garments are included, — anything needed to proportion ; — a shirt or an ulster, a. 
glove or a shoe, a shirt collar or cuff, a wrist band or a pant's bottom will be found for 
immediate use. 

As to wlioni it can 1)0 used by to advantage: it ought to be in the office of every 
manufacturer, jobber or retailer of clothing, and should be supplied to all traveling 
Clothing salesmen. It is needed by the managers of Juvenile Clothing departments; 
by those receiving or executing special orders for children's garments; by merchant 
tailors; by clothing cutters of all luanches; by students of cutting; and Ijy every man 
and wonian connected witli the production of Juvenile clothing or patterns. 

Its uses and advantages are more fully stated in the following extract from West's 
Report of F.vshions, Fall, 1879-80: 

"We call attention to the work on Human Proportions, by Mr. Ryan, a small sketch of which 
appears in this Magazine. This work has been more thoroughly mentioned from time to time in the 
Monthly. The reader does not get a definite idea of the value of this master-piece from the short 
notice given by the Author. The production is undoubtedly w^orthy of appreciation, and we could not 
speak too highly of t : first, from our own knowledge ; and secondly, from the expressions given by 
those who are using it. We are of the opinion that every person, in any way connected with Merchant 
Tailoring, as well as Clothing, should have one in his pocket." 

"The condensed form in which it is gotten up is admiralile, and worthy of consideration. It is 
made to fold and goes into an envelope that can be carried in the breast pocket, and at the same 
time contains a complete set of Proportions for boys, for children, and for youths, from the time of 
dropping their swaddling clothes until they arrive at manhood. The reason that Cutters and Merchant 
Tailors should have this is because it runs into men's garments and contains many indisjiensable things. 
No one is a Cutter unless he understands the production of juvenile garments. A Cutter may learn 
to measure and cut men's garments and commit the same to memory ; but the production of juvenile 
garments he could not. Mr. Ryan has been years compiling this work, and u.ses it every hour in the 
day, and could not conduct the business he does without it. / have one in my pocket, and I do not see 
how I could get along without it. I am using it all the time, and recommend others to have the work. 

J B. WEST." 

A close and careful study of tlie Index Column and of the parts noted by corres- 
ponding letters on Table of Height, and the application of Height Scale to illustrate 
the study, will insure a clear understanding of it in a few minutes. 



Ii0t« U nm il|e fvMt ^ fim0ii 



MAKE CLOSE REFERENCE TO THE INDEX COLUMN, AND APPLY THE 
HEIGHT SCALE AS EACH EXAMPLE IS GIVEN. 




• 



HE human form, (when proportionate,) by the natural law of stature is 
divided into eight equal parts or sections, the location and extent of each 
being clearly defined, as ',!) the head, (2) the shoulders, (3) the body to 
natural waist, (4) the hips and seat to fork, (5) the thighs, (6) the knees, (7) the 
calves, (8) the ankles; each part being one eighth of the entire height, which, by sub- 
dividing each part into eight, gives sixty-four parts for the entire height. 

Illustration. A figure sixty-four inches high, divided as above, gives eight parts 
eacli eight inches, or one inch for each sixty-fourth part of the height. 

A figure seventy-two inches high (six feet). One-eighth of seventy-two is nine, 
thus giving eight parts each nine inches, which being sub divided to one-eighth of nine 
inches, gives one and one-eighth inches for each sixty fourth of the entire height. 

A figure thirty-two inches high. One-eighth of thirty two is four, thus giving 
eight parts each four inches, which being sub-divided to one-eighth of four inches, 
gives one half-inch for each sixty-fourth of the entire height. 

The heights of all figures are to be divided into or considered as composed of 
sixty-four parts, of which eight parts form each section. 

The leg is one-half the entire height of the body, less one sixty- fourth ; or the 
fork point is one sixty-fourth below the center of body, h. 



10 

The table of height is based on a scale of one-eighth of an inch to the inch, and all 
heights on the page, and their smallest subdivisions or fractional parts, can be instantly 
found by dropping the Height Scale on to the line of height used, placing the X end 
of scale on line k, and from there down, every cross sec;tion of the body will be indi- 
cated in full inches. 

Illustration To find the lengths of a forty-nine inches height, drop the height 
scale, as instructed, on line b, and it will indicate 12}4 to natural waist, 18 to largest 
part of the seat, U)i^ to the fork point, 24)^ to the middle of thigh, 28^ to the upper 
part of knee hollow and also to top of knee cap, M}4 to middle of calf, 40)^! to the 
ankle, and 43 to sole of foot. 

For a fifty-five inches height, the measures will be 14, 20, 21^^, 27^, 32j^, 38?^ 
45^^, and ASH. 

For a sixty-eight inches height, the measures will be 17, 24^^, 26^, 34>^, 39ji, 
47^, 5634, and 59^. 

This illustrates the general application of the Height Scale for all heights. Its 
special application is based on the requirements of style and fashion, as they may change 
the lengths of garments. 

THE LOCATION OF LENGTH FOR GARMENTS. 

Children's Jackets, Blouses, etc. and Men's, Youths' and Boys' Sacks range from 
I to K. The style lengths generally prevailing up to 18S0 are given by lines rr, ss, tt. 

Walking Coats and Business Frocks range from k to one-half of k-l ; present style 
about K. Waists of Frocks, full or style length, one quarter of f-g, below f, and Busi- 
ness Frocks from one-half to one inch longer. 

Double Breast Frocks, full length, range from one-half of k-l to M. Present style 
itbout L. 

Overcoats range from l to n, present style about m for Children, Boys and Youth, 
and one-quarter of m-n below m for extra long coats for Children from two to six years. 

Ulsters range from n to one-half of o-p, present .style about N. 

Knee Pants are short in proportion for small sizes, and long for large boys. A 



11 

grade line would start the three years old at m, and lun down to one half of m-n at ten 
years. This is about the general requirement of trade. 

Cuffs of under coats should not make up less than the size of the fist ( as per Table 
of Width,) but for general trade make up to one inch larger, as for an eleven fist a 
twelve inch cuff. 

Children's one piece Kilt Suits range from m to N, present style one-third of m-n, 
below M. Kilt Skirts, including a two inch waist band, range from k to N, less one- 
quarter of F-G. Style length changes very slightly; present style about one half of m n. 

Children's Shirt Waists. Length to the waist seam, b to f and one quarter of k-g. 
A button band is to be added, the width is of minor importance, and not estimated in 
the length proper. 

Sailor Blouse length, b to three-quarters of f-g. This gives all the fold-over re- 
quired ; iidd hems. 

Shirt lengths, b to k. 

Capes for Raglans and Inverness, and plain capes to button on, etc. Length b to 
about H. Plain capes about three quarters of f-g, below f. The latter are shortest. 

Cloaks range in length from k to l, present style one-half of k-l. 

Long Blouse Jackets to go with a kilt skirt range from R to k, present style k. 

Vests, back length, from b to one-half of f-g, and forepart length from b to h for 
children, and from b to g for boys and youths. This length of forepart is to be applied 
from the shoulder point to bottom of vest at front. It gives a long vest of present style. 
The length ranges from one half of f-i to i. 

Length to knee f, to one-half of l-m. 

Forearm length of sleeves, E to j, can be used to obtain the correct inside length. 

LOCATION AND SIZE OF POCKETS. 

The style of garments and their lengths govern to some extent the location of 
pockets, but on general principles, and in conformity to the height of figure, the hip 
pockets for under coats should be located two-thirds of f-g, below f, and for overcoats 
three-quarters of f-g below f. 



12 



Illustration To obtain the proper distance down tor an under coat pocket for a 
forty-nine inches height. Two-thirds of f-g will be found to be 16>i inches from line b, 
three-fourths of the distance, for an overcoat, will be found to be 16^ inches. Apply- 
either amount from the socket bone (line b,) down the back seam of the pattern, and 
right opposite that amount on the forepart, locate the pocket. 

This method is based on the forepart and back being in a joining position, and 
placed within a square. For a fifty-five inches height the amounts will be : under coat 
18, overcoat 18^. For a sixty-eight inches height, under coat 22, overcoat 22^. 



The diagram given will fully illustrate the 
location of pockets. 

A is the socket bone; b the length found to 
be two-thirds or three-fourths of k-g below f; 
c is a point at right angles out from the back 
line, and under the center of scye. 

Swing the back part of pocket on point c, 
and ranye it with the bottom. 




SIZE OF POCKET MOUTHS. 

Here to some extent Avshion decrees a standard, but there is a natural guide and a 
uniformly correct one, — the size of the hand. In all cases, the size of the hand is one- 
fourth the size of the breast, or nine inches hand to thirty-six inches breast measure. 

For undercoats, hip pockets are three-fourths the size of hand, and breast pockets 
one half the size of hand, with one-half inch added to both for tacks. To overcoats add 
one inch for each. 

For cash or ticket pockets, one-third the size of hand. 

Vest pockets one-half the size and vest watch pockets one-third the size of hand. 

Trousers pockets : — front, two-thirds of hand ; pistol pockets one-half size of hand. 

Upright hand pockets for coats, two-thirds the size of hand. 



13 

This method can be successfully applied to size all pockets, no matter what may be 
the changes of style, as it is a natural basis to work by and from, — a proportion of 
the hand in all cases. 

FORMULA CONDENSED, BREAST 36, HAND 9. 







Proportion of Hand 


Add 


Total. 


Hip or Skirt Pockets, 


Undercoat, 


34— 03/^ 


1-2 


"^H 


Do. 


Overcoat, 


3-4—6)^ 


1 


'^H 


Breast Pockets, 


Undercoat, 


1-2— ii4 


1-2 


5 


Do. 


Overcoat, 


1 2 4>^ 


1 


5K 


Cash or Ticket Pockets, 


Undercoat, 


1-3—3 


1-2 


3K 


Do. 


Overcoat, 


1-3—3 


1 


4 


Upright Hand Pockets, 




2-3—6 




6 


Trousers Corner or Side Pockets, 


2-3—6 




6 


Do. Pistol Pockets, 




1-2— 4 >^ 




^'A 


Vest, Lower Pockets, 




1-2— 4 >^ 


1-2 


5 


'• Watch 




1-3—3 


1-2 


3l4 



The foregoing lengths, given to include what is in general use up to 1880, show 
where they occur on the human form in reference to its entire height, and the special 
section for each garment. In addition to their value as giving the standard leqgths 
of the present great clothing stocks of the country, they will be found of the greatest 
value as a reference and guide in the future for making proportional changes. 

The basis of proportions being given for a fashionable stock of clothing suitable to 
the present time, the following is the method of changes for every possible demand for 
all time to come 

It being known that a garment has been changed to a longer or shorter style than 
previously cut, it is only necessary to observe how much it is changed by its propor- 
tional length on any one height, and its proportional length on all other heights can be 
instantly ascertained. For instance, if Sack Coats have been changed to reach the 
middle of the hand, we find that location to be one-half of i-k, which on a sixty-eight 
incheis height gives a 30^/^ coat, on a sixty-four inches height a 28 1^^ coat, and on a. sixty 
inches height a 27 coat : so that the length lorms a proportion of the distance 
between the fork, I, and the middle of the thigh, K. 



14 

This is the method and the principle used to establish lengths of all garments. No 
matter what kind of a garment, be it ever so long or short, its length is located in some 
one of the sections of the body. Its location in that section is noted as a part OF 
quantity of it by division, and the same section of any. other height is to be 
similarly divided to learn the same relative position, by which to establish a full length 
for any other garment. 

As a final example. — If an overcoat, reaching ten inches from the sole of the foot, 
is found to be right on a boy ten years old ; and a set of patterns is desired of four to 
ten years; we apply the height scale to fifty-one inches height, noting ten inches up from 
sole of foot We find that location to be about two-thirds of m-n, and two-thirds of 
M-N from line b is 34^ inches; then two thirds of m-n on height thirty-nine inches, four 
years, is located; from line b to the two-thirds is found to be 2Qj4 inches, which gives 
for the latter age a garment reaching to within seven and one-half inches of the sole of 
foot. This would be in harmony with the entire height, and the same distance from the 
sole of the foot in proportion to the height of the four years figure. 



Note. — All divisions of sections of the body are to be noted from line b down, 
as one-third of f-g would be one-third of that space below f, or five-eighths of j-k 
would be five-eighths below j. 



f jisk $! mum 



so^^Lie: of^ -^fljejj^&t ofl sej^^t. 




• 



T lower right hand corner of the Table of Width, will be found a set or 
table of scales to be used for either breast or seat measure. They are in 
leduced form, being one-quarter of an inch to the inch, and each scale 
represents one half of the entire breast or seat measure, divided into eighteen parts. 
They are given from twenty to fifty inches breast or seat, and the full size of either 
is indicated by the column of numbers at the right hand side, which makes the selection 
of a scale readier than by numbering each scale to one half the breast or seat measure. 

To find the circumference in inches of the different parts of the body in proportion 
to the breast or seat measure, the following is the method. A breast measure is known 
or selected, say twenty seven inches, and the size of scye, fist, wrist and neck is to be 
ascertained. On the Table of Width select scale 27, and place the Width Scale along 
the line extending out of that number, placing the X end of the scale even with the line 
A.v, or right hand side of the table. With the scale held in that position, refer to the 
Column of Parts, and where the same num])er of ]);irts on the Table of Width crosses 
tlie Width Scale, will be the size in inches, which in this case is scye 12i^ inches, fist 8i^, 
wrist 5 '4. and neck liyi inches 

To a.scertain the size in inches of parts proportioned to the seat measure, viz : — the 
thigh, knee, calf, bottom of knee pants and fork points, the size of seat being known, 



16 



a scale is selected on Table of Width to correspond, say thirty inches seat, and the 
Width Scale is placed on the line extending out of 30 on the Table, in the same manner 
as directed foi the breast scale. Again refer to the Column of Parts, and where the 
same number of parts on the Table of Width crosses the Width Scale, will be the size in 
inches of each part, which in this case for a thirty inch seat will be, thigh 16^ inches, 
knee 12^, calf lOj^g, fork points 4^ inches. For size of thigh two parts have to be 
added to the Table of Width Scales, and the estimate made on twenty parts to each 
sca'e The Column of Pnrts gives the size of thigh as twenty parts of the scale of the 
seal. To this is to be added one and a half inches and four seams, or two and one half 
inches in all. This addition is needed for ease and making up, as the twenty parts con- 
stitute the undress tight thtgh measure, taken in the same manner as the seat measure. 

The formula condensed will then be: 



Breast, . . . 27 inches. 
Scale, . . 27 size. 

Scye, l&yi parts or 12i/^ inches. 



Fist, 11 
Wrist, 7 
Neck, 14^ 



8'/ 



!\i/. 



11 >8 



Seat, . . .30 inches. 

Scale, 30 size. 

Thigh, 20 parts or 16^ inches. 

Knee, 15 " 120 " 

Calf, 13 " 10^^ " 



Fork, 55/s 



43/i 



$mttnl ^lemntt^. 




V purpose in this work is to meet the requirements of the Clothing Trade, 
by supplying a practical basis on which to produce correctly sized patterns 
from which can be manufactured Clothing that will satisfy the demands of 
both seller aiul buyer in all parts of the country, and in fact, will adapt the work pro- 
duced to the wants of the million. 

This work will be used mainly by two classes: the professional cutters who will 
from it obtain the natural proportions of the body to use in connection with their own 
system of drafting, to size and age patterns correctly ; and by those who desire to 
become thorouf,hly informed as to the sizes for children of all ages, and the proper 
proportions and measures of children's garments. To the former I would say, that any 
system of drafting that will fit a fine garment for a man, will answer for children's 
garmencs, with the exception that generally the shoulder must be made one-quarter to 
one-half inch longer, or the back the same amount shorter. The grand secret in cutting 
juvenile garments has been, not how to draft the patterns, but what proportions 
to give them. The common square with its divisions, and Human Proportions in 
Growth are all that is necessary. 

The critic, ever watchful of faults, fallacies or failures, when he casts his searching 
eye along the line indicating the ages, and looks at the columns of height, size around, 
and general measurement for each age, will rise for an explanation, full of the happy 
discovery that there are persons longer or shorter, thinner or stouter than indicated by 
the measurements for each age, and will ask, " What are you going to do about them ? " 



18 

If the Clothing trade of the country was conducted on the principle of accommodating 
exceptions, as such, tliere would be no limit ; as every age would have to be dealt with 
by its proper average, and then all the grand exceptions to each age, from Barnum's 
Fat Boy to General Mite, taken in and provided for. Fancy such a stock! 

There is an average height and size for each age during 
juvenile growth, and the great success of the Children's Clothing Trade is due 
to tlic fact tliat manufacturers have adapted their garments as nearly as possible to 
the proportions of the correct average for each age. In a stock of clothing sized for 
age, when a l)oy of eight years is as large as one of nine or ten years, he is provided 
with nine or ten year garments; when he is undersized, he is dealt with correspond- 
ingly in small garments, and is made happy with nicely proportioned garments, — as 
happy as I trust the critic is, with this brief explanation showing that exceptions are 
not treated as such, but dealt willi according to their girth or height, irres{)ective 
of age, when their proportions and age do not correspond. 

Correctly proportioned garments, perfect in balance, handsome in outline and 
shape, intended to lit only perfect forms, and not intended or cut to fit imperfect ones, 
have been the means used by the Clothing Trade to insure a success that is almost 
unprecedfented. On general principles, a garment cut to correct [)ro]iortions and hand- 
some shape, will appear entirely superior and give more satisfaction to an ill shaped sub- 
ject than one that fits the deformities of ordinary degree. Hence, the Clothing Trade 
fills every want Ity supplying a perfect covering for a perfect body, and a handsome 
disguise to cover artistically what is wanting in the imperfect one. 



A few lines under this head will show the great value of the work. 

In the majority of cases where measures are sent by buyers, the most important 
ones are not taken, are missed, or are imperfect in one or many ways. With the full 
height and breast measure (the full height is generally taken with shoes on, and an inch 
must be deducted for heels before selecting the height in the table) every other measure 
can be learned with a very great certainty. 



19 

For example, a measure is received giving the breast measure 27, leg seam 24, and 
a few prouf measures of minor importance, but no arm, sleeve, waist, hip, waist length 
coat length, pant bottoms, etc. 

For a solution, turn to the Table of Width, and going down the left hand column 
to the third or breast Une, select 27 breast and note all the proportions agreeing with it, 
as 27 breaast, 25 «^ waist, 29 hip or seat, 8j4 fist, 11 14; neck of shirt, 12»^ scye, etc. 
Observe next the proportions that agree with size of seat ; next select the height that 
agrees with a 24 leg senm, which will be found in the second row of figures, and over 
the leg measure, 51 inches height; turn to the Table of Height, select 51 inches, and all 
the lengths that iigree therewith will be correct. These will be, vest back length 15j^, 
frcnit length l!t)^, pants to kneo 17. side seam :U, leg seam 24, seat 29, waist 25 1^, 
thigh IG/^, knee to style, (about one inch more than bottom;* ), bottoms 15',^, fork 
points 4^. 

In all cases the anatomical length of leg is to be rated one half intli longer than 
the leg seam of pants, as in this case the leg o;i ta])]e of height of 51 inche.s will be 
found 241^ inihe.s. If the leg length was giveu as 23 instead of 24, all the lengths of or 
corresponding to 49 height should be used; if a 25 leg measure, the lengths of a 53 
height, and .so on. 

Use the proportions of the full height for lengths of the body, the proportivans of 
the breast measure for the sizes of upper parts of the body, and jiroportions of the seat 
for lower parts. Where the body is long and the legs short, or the reverse, use the 
scale of height adapted to leg length for all below i, and the scale of height adapted 
to the body length for all between b and i, when it is desired to cut garments to corres- 
pond. 

In making patterns for the clothing manufacturing trade, use the Table of Height 

exactly as laid down ; in order work as previously instructed. 



T §< tnm nt ©tatitf^* 



The theoretical standard laid down of dividing the full height into sixty-four parts 
and eight sections of eight parts each, is thousands of years old, and correct in principle 



20 

when applied to proportionate forms. The modifications necessary to render it entirely 
practical as a basis by which to give all sizes of garments their appropriate lengths, 
have been defined in this work. 

Your attention is directed to the following explanation. 

During early childhood, the body is longer in proportion than tlie legs and arms. 
This disproportion decreases, by force of a natural law, as the child grows and brings 
the limbs into use, until at full growth the natural standard of proportion is reached. 
The Table of Height is based on this comparative disproportion during childhood ; and 
the eight sections of the l)ody are divided into four long sections for the upper and 
four short sections for tlie lower \)ar{. The discrepancy is not in the law or its app.i- 
catiou ; and the reijuirements of the figure are met by a proper division ol' the unequal 
parts. The eigiit sections of the 32 heiglit, instead of being epi.il p.irts of the entire 
height, are equal fourths respectively of the body above and below the fork, the dispro- 
portion decreasing little by little in each height, until at sixty-four inches height the 
jDroportionate division of eight equal parts, and the theoretical standard is reached. 

In conclusion, it may l>e stated that the " Proportions in Growth " are for the 
period of juvenile growth. The harmony of the law is suspended at maturity when 
the body grows in girth unequally, the parts being aifected by exercise, occupation or 
mode of life, so tliat the hands, feet, neck, calves, thighs, etc. are in proportion to 
breast, seat and height, only in an exceptional degree. Nevertheless, when the use of 
the Tables, and their application to the requirements of the figure are fully understood, 
all lengths and widths will be found within their scope. The author makes constant 
application to them in sizing patterns up to fifty breast and seven feet height, and this 
editi(jn has had added to it an extra Table of Height, extending from six to seven feet^ 
which will be found to complete the work for all practical heights of men. 



21 



Line of Height. — The line extending perpendicular to the full length of figure 
from crown of head to sole of foot, or from a to q. 

Line B. — Is the line from which all measures for body lengths of garments start. 

Line C. — Is the natural socket bone line, but line b is substituted as a starting 
point, to give the difference in length required by the curved form of the human body. 

Line I. — Is the fork point line, from which all divisions of the leg measure lengths 
are to be estimated. Between lines i and f the rise of pants and division for fashion 
lengths of waist are to be made. 

Index. — The index colurau on lower right hand corner of the table of lu-ight con 
tains letters corresponding to letters on the lines of height which designate the diflferent 
lines that divide the body into sections cross wise. Each cross line is explained in the 
Ijody of the index opposite its letter. 

Table of Heicht. — Is a table containing all the lines of height of the human 
figure from 32 to 72 inches, with fractional parts between, and containing also all the 
cross lines that divide the body into parts. 

Height Scale. — Is a scale divided into parts of one-eighth of an inch to the inch. 
It is to be used only on the lines of height, the quantities indicated by it are full inches. 

Table of Width. — Is a miniature set of breast scales, of one half the breast or 
seat measure, divided into eighteen parts. The table is arranged or reduced to a scale 
of one quarter of an inch to the inch. 

Width Scale. — Is a scale to be used on the table of widths only. It is arranged 
to a scale of one quarter of an inch to the inch, and indicates what any number of parts 
(of any scale) are in full inches. 

Formulas in Proportions. — Are rough and ready methods to be committed lo 
memory, for use in the absence of the chart itself. 



22 

Proportion in Parts. The relative size of any part of the body, in proportion to 
the breast or seat, is indicated by the number of parts in the Column of Parts; and the 
size in inches is obtained by api)lying the width scale to the table of widths on the line 
of the breast or seat measure scale : — where the same number of parts crosses the width 
scale that will be the size in inches. 

Column ok Parts. This column indicates, by the number of parts that form a 
proportion of the breast or scat measure, the relative size of all other circumferences ot 
the body; and the size, in inches, of any number of parts is ascertained by applying the 
width scale to the same number of parts on the table of widths. 

In the Table ot Measures at the top of the Tables of Height and Width, the 
an)ountH under the line of Ages are given in inches, and the measure for any age will 
be found do^vn the column under each age. 



With this edition is introduced an Extra Table of Height, giving the proportions 
of lengtii or liright for forms from six to seven feet, which makes the work complete, 
not only for the period of juvenile growth, but for the extraordinary heights which we 
occasionally meet with. The Height Scale is to be applied in the same manner as on 
the regular table. It must be distinctly understood that the Extra Height Table is 
for proportions of height only, that the harmony of the law of growth exists 
during the years of juvenile growth only; but the methods and formulas laid down in 
tlic work can be used with safety for men's sizes up to forty or forty-two breast and seat 
mcnsure, by a slight modification of the quantities above thirty-six breast. 



NOTE. — When the Tables of Height and Width are worn out by the owner, they will be replaced at 
Two Dollars each, and the work complete at half price. The old Tables must first be retiirned. The Scales 
of Height and Width, made of satinwood, and on one stick, furnished complete for One Dollar. 



23 






3^ 1 

f i 

i 




5' c - 
3 a 

c • 

fi ■ 

I ! • 
3 • 

??' 
* 


Vests, . 

Overcoats, Single Breas 

U It u 

Double " 
Ulsters, S and D " 
Blouse lackets for Kih? 


> 
= 3 
^'^ 
a'-O 
3 5 

? " 

3" C 


a 

~ r, 

u 
n 


00 . p 

J" J 3 

n 
a 

■ ? 
' E 


> , 

ST , 

w 

z 








• .i • C ' 








*•* 















< 














"■ 


. 




'-'; • 








~ . 






Vi • 




















u 1 








■ ■ ■ 


' 






; ;^^^;?^^^': 




^V>W ^ ^ v: 








. 5' ^ s =■ r- ^ ^_ • 




3' 5. 5 5' =■ 3. 


> 


tf 






£/) ' 










■- 3 3 -r r 3 


■' 

9! 


7q 

2. 






:? 


5 « « 5 2 '^ 



























w 










> 


c ■ 


', [. N U N M N to N U tJ N ls> 


K> U M h» N N 


d. ' 




— . 


> ■, 


c 
5 




3 
....... 3- 


a? 1 








2: c 








s 


rt 1 












. 




3 ' 


* 






'. '. '. ', 








K 


— 




M — 


to M N K) U • 




_ ! 


- - ' 


>2 


— 






r^ r^ f-* 




__. * 


_. 


X 


_ 




- 5" 


O O O 3' . 




3 


3 . 


c > 








(^ Cm tA> i 5- ■ 




n 

3- : 


'''F-: 


? if 


V) 


^ 






333. y . 








N 


*< 














]' 


5" 






W N ! '. 






W I; 


o 




_. - D 


5-c 

g,«*J Cm ; ; 


X 


" . ; 


s 




. 3 " 


5 5'3\ 




■ ?■ • • 




2. 
















oa 










• 




3- 




























5 


i ■ ■ ■ . 








3. 


!cp>scno- >T;cpjc rH O"? 


> 






S J! 2"- c S c , w •?.; 


p 0. 




a! 


S?fNxcl,'lg- fcf!; 


3 „ 
7 

1 1 

i- 1 










9" 


,, Ti=^^-^a-^ -"OKI B?" 

i • 8 --■ 1 1 


S 
> 


c 

V 

5' 
5' 


P 

<; 


5^ 


3- 

rt 


■ ^i -" 










r- 















^ "- ^ ^- w "^ -- M -4 



^ =- 1 p' 1 g- O 



O- 

c s 



5 aq c« — 5- 
""'5 5 ?r = 



S c S£ 

fD j; 73 

,_ ?r r-. 



ft 



p 5 c « 
C;. re p 

5 < 



•5 5. 
7; 



o _. ~ ■" o i.- =_="■' 2 

r' /■ ,_► Z c P C rt .~; ft ^ 

77* ^ ■— "^ ».*j .^ ^— * *"• ^ "^^ W ^ •—, "^ 



p ft X '• ;i' 
c P E 5 



c- 5= £ ^ -■ 



ri- — 






re o 



p 

n" 
ft 



ft 



<! 

ft 



ft 

P 

p 



ft 
3 



7i 



to 

in 
-. lO 

- 4- 

ft 

~ 2" 

CS" ft' 

ft >■•' 

'■7. ^ 

c ft 

-! P 



:^ 3 ft 



P Zi- - 



ft 2 :t- 



c- O' 



p a. 



_ ft p 

3 -J^ cf. 

ft ji p 

P -1 

^ ft P 



o S. 



ft' ft 



=1 — 



ft ft 



y M 



ft C 



^.ft 



"£ c 



O 2 






O -. 

a- 

c 



s.=.5S 



2 fT c- 



ft 

J» 

=r 

P 

<_ 

Oq 

P ' 



Pi- P 
-! 3 

ft a^ 



ft 3 «■- 

ft Cj 



ft s s 

C- p 3 
-< ft E 



5-E- 

ft ~, 



S ?= E 

° g 2 

3" ft ft 



■- . :::.2 3 

r ;> ?'-'=■ s- 

- G c -^ =3 

3-^=2™ 

ft =• :; =• p 
ftC? P 5 = 
2.HS 3 « 

3 ■Q^y P 03 

- P P ^ o 

; "= ft s 
,_, — en ft 

'•■'-' H E. —• ^ 
t< _ s — o 

? p e^s g 
(7i c s sr; o 

H o 3 ^ '^ 
« ^g 5 3 

i X ^ 'J- -* 



i c« 



ft' 



p 



ft 



— CO 

>; N 
ft 
ft c^' s^ " 

C 



> - - ^ 7: = 

•A f^ r- O <t p ^ 
^"^ "^ ^ ?J ft r* 

;^ ?r o 
£,< =— 2 - — — = 



— o 
ft ft 



— p ^ rq ,^^ 



ft -- — 

_. o 

5 ~.aq £ < 

3 c^ .. 3 ft 

-; P £ C „. 

2 §: 5: o' " 

>- 2 £ 3 ^ 

r, — - -* 






;:i ft ::^ TT 



33 


— 


X 


Oj 






P 


*™^ 


^ 


P 





P 




a 


ffi 


B 

3 

CO 


ft 


« 


3- 

p 


ft 


e-t- 


^"^ 


7J 



ft -. 






7. C 



O p 



— '^ s' 
S ="«.< 

7) 5 ^ 
^-' 3 

=^3 5 

5 c ft 

,^ 05 -1 

ft ir» . 



P3 r^ 3* , 

O — • i- 

>■ ^ ^ 5" jr. 

r 

C 



^?i 



Zi 



^ P = ::; ^ 

O P 7i ^ '- 
i C- 3 -^ ft 



I 












.*.^ 



% 









v^^% 



>^,,.^^ 








% 


.^^ 




/> 






<^^. 

■"*, 


^^ 


% 




;,^-,.« 








"--0^ 




^ "OV^^ 






K^-^^^ 




: ,0^ 








■-■^ *- 








^ » 










V- 


s - 








:-' ^^., 


A^ 








■'^A 


<-- 








■\ 


>■. 


*^-' 





.^'•'^v. 



*b 


V^' 










v^^ 


\ 




^^•^ 


^x. 








\/ 


* • 


r" 

.,;\ 


■1 ,_ 












"^> 












A^^' 




'O 






* .^ 








,> 






c o" 

^ 


>^- 


o'^ 




''b 


-.J 



,0 



■<..<i'' 





\ 


.N^^' 






.^^ 




"•■V 


^--0^ 








K^-^^" 






•■■•> 






v^^"^: 






.^ -V -^- 



vv 



a' 



.-V 



■^- 0^ 






. it 
♦ 






v^*-^. 






<<'^>'^^ '^^.^X^^ 






•fj. * 



<^^'% 



'"*. 












1'j \ 



,■5 -^o 



,.>l o^. 



..^^ 






..•I °x 






vV 



"-/- ^'^ 



v^'-'-^ 



'bV"' 



